Argentine aventura: Antofagasta to Fiambalá

'But, why?' We're standing at the corner, where our direct route to Fiambala branches off the main road, chatting to couple of Argentine gentlemen who are full of questions. A sandy track signposted '4x4 only' leads into a more deserty looking area than the desert we're already in. 'Una aventura?' we offer, uncertainly. There is …

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The Salt Road: Trails through the Argentine Puna

The Puna de Atacama is a windswept, arid, high altitude, desert-like plateau on the border of Chile and Argentina. If you think that sounds a little inhospitable, you'd be right. But when it is not blowing a ferocious gale and exfoliating your already dry and leathery skin with airborne sand, it can be stunningly bright, …

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The faded glory of Paso Socompa

We develop a gluttonous olive baguette and goats cheese habit in San Pedro and when we make our early morning escape, freshly baked loaves are secured to the handlebars and an extra large slab of cheese slowly sweats in the rising temperature. A departure from 'civilisation' demands packing in a few treats you won't be …

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Northern Chile to Argentina: Paso Sico and the end of the line

San Pedro is at once delightful and shocking. A small, cute, desert town creaking under the weight of tourism. After a slog through the Lagunas we happily throw our weight in the mix and make the most of it – eating, drinking, lazing and even taking a tour. It's a disconnected experience, travelling in an …

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